CATALAN CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS

Let me introduce you to a few curious Catalan Christmas traditions. If you’ve never heard of them, you might think I made them up. They aren’t South Park inspired either (anyone remembers Mr Hankey?). No, this is Christmas, the Catalan way.

EL CAGANER

 

First of all, let’s talk about caganers. If you walk over the Fira de Santa Llúcia, the big Christmas market in front of the Cathedral in Barcelona, you might be surprised to see people lining up to buy figurines of shitting politicians and celebrities. Say what? “El caganer” literally means “the shitter”. Typically, it’s a figurine wearing traditional Catalan clothes and red hat (barretina), sometimes smoking a pipe or reading a newspaper. It is a typical feature in the Catalan nativity scene, doing his business, usually hidden in a corner; it is a game for children to look for the little guy. I’ve read about many “explanations” as to why this peasant figure is defecating in the Nativity scene; here’s a few of them:

• As a symbol of fertility, it is said to bring luck and a good harvest. 
• It reminds us that everyone is equal, everyone is human; after all, we all poop. 
• As it is so poetically described on the website of the Amics del Caganer: “The placement of this uninhibited and controversial figure in the crèche is a counterpoint which adds a human side to the representation of the mystery of Christmas. This down-to-earth symbol makes for a marvelous synthesis which harmonizes its transcendent and supernatural message with material reality and the biological condition of our organism.” (http://www.amicsdelcaganer.cat/angles/figura/figuracaganer.htm)

The world's largest caganer, at shopping center Maremagnum in Barcelona, December 2010. 

Bakhtin classes definitely come to mind. Nowadays, it seems like the caganer is not only a fun and entertaining figure (especially the ones from the Queen of England, Obama, and other famous people), but also a real element of Catalan identity – reading articles on this subject written by expats, I stumbled upon comments by Catalans who were obviously offended by the foreigner’s point of view, who were wondering about the “Catalan obsession with poop”. The Dutch should easily understand this feeling, with our “Zwarte Piet” who we love so much; even though we can imagine how strange and offending this might look from a foreigner’s point of view, we love our little strange tradition because it’s ours. 

“If you don’t shit well, I’ll hit you with a stick” - TIÓ DE NADAL

But no, we’re not done talking about poo just yet. And yes, it can get weirder. I started seeing these cute little wooden objects everywhere in the city, wearing a festive red hat and a friendly smile. Apparently, this little guy is a “Tió de Nadal”, which is Catalan for “Christmas Log”. A little odd but still nice, I hear you think. Well, another name for this thing is “Caga Tió” which means “shitting log”, or it is meant as an order (“Shit, log!”). This is another GREAT Catalan Christmas tradition. 

Starting on the 8^th of December, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, Caga tió  is welcomed in the Catalan house; every day, kids give him something to eat and cover him with a blanket, so he doesn’t get cold. On Christmas Eve (or day), it is a tradition to order the Christmas log to… shit. To encourage him to “shit” out the presents, kids beat him with a stick, while singing songs of Tió de Nadal. So festive!

Here’s a version of the Caga tió song:  

"Caga tió, caga torró, avellanes i mató, si no cagues bé et daré un cop de bastó. caga tió!"

Translated:

Shit, log!

Shit turrón (a kind of nougat)

Hazelnuts and mató (Catalan cheese)

If you don’t shit well

I will hit you with a stick

Shit, log!

Watch this video if you don't believe me. Here they are singing a different version of the caga tió song. Maybe a little strange, but it also looks kind of cute, right?

CHRISTMAS IN BARCELONA

The typical cold weather might be missing in Barcelona, but there’s a real Christmassy atmosphere in the city. Especially at night, festive Christmas decorations light up the streets, while El Corte Ingles is all glittery and full of dancing snowflakes (even though they seem a little out of place in this Mediterranean city). The caganers and cagatiós add a little fun and quirkiness to it all, as well as a truly unique celebration of Christmas.  

Let’s end this post with a fitting popular Catalan saying:

Menja bé, caga fort i no tinguis por a la mort!  (Eat well, poop a good deal and don’t fear death!)

Happy Holidays everyone!

More on Catalan Christmas:

http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/events/christmas/barcelona-christmas-traditions.html

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/18/travel/a-catalan-christmas.html?_r=0

http://www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/living/almost-all-you-need-to-know-about-caga-tio-and-the-caganer/

 http://www.amicsdelcaganer.cat/angles/figura/figuracaganer.htm

http://catavino.net/cagatio-and-caganer/

Image source largest caganer: http://mariaagrell.blogspot.com.es/2010/11/el-caganer.html